In a shallow dish, combine soy sauce, white wine, and brown sugar. Add salmon fillets and coat both sides. Set aside to marinate.

Tear the shiitakes into small pieces, finely dice the celery stalk, mince the garlic, and finely chop the onion.

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil over high heat in a heavy bottomed pot or skillet. Add shiitakes and cook until they release their moisture. Add another tablespoon of olive oil and cook until they start to brown. Stir in soy sauce and cook for 1 minute more. Remove from skillet.

Reduce heat to medium low and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add celery, onion, and garlic. Cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add rice and toast for 1 minute. Deglaze with white wine, simmer for 2 minutes while scraping up the brown bits from the bottom of the skillet using a wooden spoon.

Add 2 ladles of chicken broth at a time, stirring frequently, until the broth has been almost completely absorbed before adding the next 2 ladles. Cook until the rice is almost al dente, about 15 minutes. Stir in shiitakes. Dissolve miso with 2 tablespoons of hot broth and add to risotto. Simmer about 5 minutes until the risotto is ready, adding more broth if needed.

Heat oil and butter over medium high in a nonstick skillet. Add salmon and sear for 4 minutes per side.

Serve salmon over risotto, topping with black pepper, chives, and sesame seeds.